No matter where you are in Chile, a panting perro wants to be your friend. Look away for a moment and you’ll find a tail-wagging mutt at your heels trotting your direction, whichever way that may be. Some are remarkably healthy, some are a but scruffy, but so far all have seemed friendly and ingratiating. …

Our countryman and fellow New Yorker, Fred, drove us to the bus in our former jalopy. By the end of the short drive we all thought it a shame that we weren’t sharing a ride to the island of Chiloé, since that is where we were all headed next, Fred in our old Geely with …