North Via South

It was dark outside but the hostel was already stirring. As we treaded lightly down a blackened stairwell, we saw lights on under doors and heard the sound of water running. Once on the ground floor we found the proprietor of the hostel making us breakfast. We’d asked for an extra early start: 4:15 am, …

There once was a great salt lake, 12,000 feet above sea level. Over time it dried up and left behind one of the most incredible geological aberrations in the world: The Salar de Uyuni. The salt from the evaporated lake remains, creating 7500 square miles of salt planes, a hard white sea that stretches to …

Somewhere in the middle of the high Bolivian desert, I crouched down next to the remains of a human. The bleached bones were pouring out of the mouth of a tomb, a skull looking up at me from its side. Animals and grave-robbers has dislodged this once important person from his resting place, and no …